Electronic music - pickups: Difference between revisions

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A piezo element (often in disc form, sometimes in others like a guitar pickup's rectangular pellets) responds to bending/stress on its surface with voltage.
A piezo element (often in disc form, sometimes in others like a guitar pickup's rectangular pellets) responds to bending/stress on its surface with voltage.


This makes them useful to sense vibration, impact (they are common in electronic drumkits), and in theory bending.
This makes them useful to sense  
vibration (including sound),  
impact (they are common in electronic drumkits),  
and in theory sense something bending, though there are more robust ways to do that.
 
There are piezo-based kinetic switches - e.g. battery-less RF buttons that operate from the energy you put in.




You can also use them as actuators, but only for ''very'' small movement - small sounds, small actuators in microscopy, maybe some haptic feedback.
You can also use them as actuators, but only for ''very'' small movement - small sounds, small actuators in microscopy, maybe some haptic feedback.


{{comment|(They are seen in some vandal proof buttons, because there can be a serious amount of hard material in between button and piezo. But they are not the only or often even best way to do that.)}}
{{comment|(They are seen in some vandal proof buttons, because there can be a serious amount of hard material in between button and piezo. Yet they are not the only or often even best way to do that.)}}




There are also piezo based kinetic switches - e.g. battery-less RF buttons that operate from the energy you put in.




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Piezo elements put out what you could consider AC.
Piezo elements are polarized in the sense that bending it the same direction way will always put a voltage out the same direction.  
They are polarized only in the sense that bending it the same direction way will always put a voltage out the same direction.  
 
Reversing it will put the waveform the other way.
If you have a single-ended circuit, one way will be into nothing.




When sensing vibration they put out what you could consider AC, and you would still get half of the waves,
and you might not even notice having connected it backwards.


If you have a single-ended circuit and want it to work connected either direction {{comment|(e.g. simple ADCs, such as some in microcontrollers)}}, consider a diode rectifier.
This ''will'' mean half the waveform is rectified away, and you lose some sensitivity, so some op amp trickery is sometimes preferred.


If you're e.g. measuring impulses, this might not matter much, because unless it dampens ''extremely'' quickly,
you will see either the first or second half of the first oscillation.
Yes, the first part would be a little stronger, and may come it a few milliseconds earlier (their own physical resonance tends to be hundreds of Hz).


If you're measuring impulses, then it matters ''somewhat'', because if a vibration dampens quickly, it ''can'' now matter that you see ''either'' the first part of the firth wave or the second, in that the first part is probably a little stronger, and comes in maybe ~1ms{{verify}} before the second.
For low latency velocity-sensitive drumkits, choosing to care helps a little.  In general, not so much.
For low latency velocity-sensitive drumkits, choosing to care helps a little.




If you have a single-ended circuit and want it to work connected either direction {{comment|(e.g. simple ADCs, such as some in microcontrollers)}}, consider a diode rectifier.
This ''will'' mean half the waveform is rectified away, and you lose some sensitivity, so some biasing and/or op amp trickery is sometimes preferred.
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http://music-electronics-forum.com/t960/
http://music-electronics-forum.com/t960/


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'''Electromagnetic pickups''', a.k.a. '''magnetic pickups''', means  
'''Electromagnetic pickups''', a.k.a. '''magnetic pickups''', means  
a coil,  
* a coil,  
around a permanent magnet,  
* close to a permanent magnet (practically often around, it's useful positioning),  
with both oriented and positioned so that  
* with both oriented and positioned so that a nearby conductor moving in that field affects the field in a way that makes it into the coils  
a nearby conductor moving in that field affects the field in a way that makes it into the coils.  
 
 
For context: When you move a magnet near a wire, current flows.
This is e.g. how an [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_generator electric generator] works, turning movement into electricity.
 
A guitar does something similar, but instead of moving the magnet near a wire, it moves the wire near a magnet.
 
It's not that the strings are magnetic (that would work, but be hard to make),
it's that that is done by the pickup as well.
The pickup has two distinct parts: magnets, and a coil.
The magnet is there only to set up a field strong enough for the coils to then notice the variation in.
 
A variation caused by the movement of a conductor - the strings.
 
The vibrations of the string becomes the signal on the coil, ''fairly'' directly.
 
 
This is also why such guitar pickups only work with metal strings,
and do not pick up anything acoustic, so the rest of the guitar's design barely matters to the sound - except perhaps to
things like
: hitting the body (impacts end up soft vibration of the strings),
: [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sympathetic_resonance sympathetic vibration] of strings
: shaking a guitar
 


In the case of a guitar, the vibrations of the string becomes the signal, pretty directly.
<!--


Note that there is a difference between
* vibrato while holding a string
:: basically just bending


This is why they work only with metal strings, and do not pick up anything acoustic ''at all'',
* bending the neck to change the tension
so the rest of the guitar's design barely matters to the sound.


* shaking it in a direction that does ''not'' do the last


The simplest setup is a '''single-coil''' pickup.




Such a pickup happens to also be a great antenna, so they are good at picking up any electromagnetism happening nearby,
It should be pointed out that
the strongest of which is usually the 50Hz / 60Hz power hum.
shaking
and
neck bending
have overlap but also un


And this hum can be made worse by certain effects, including distortion, fuzz, compressors <!--(often when they effectively reduce the dynamic range)-->.
Shaking the guitar works out as [[vibrato]], because you are bending the neck slightly in a regular pattern
: it's a subtler variant of using a whammy bar, useful if you don't have one.


Even vertically shaking an electric guitar seems to work,
so even without bending the neck it seems to also be something sympathetic with the string vibration.


So people though up '''humbuckers'', a setup that takes
two such coils,
hooked up in opposite polarity,
and one with its magnets flipped.


This works similarly on acoustic,
though note not all necks are equally stiff.


Due to being hooked up opposite, anything that both pick up the same amount ends up being subtracted from a near-copy.
On acoustic you may also just get more noticeable change from just pointing the sound box elsewhere
It's not perfect, but it's pretty decent things that are further away and low frequency, and mains hum is that.
 
 
On damage
 
Remember that there is always a good amount of tension on the neck, from the strings.
 
Varying that slightly should not
 
That's not to say that all bending is the same, and
 
 
 
-->
 
 
===Single coil or humbucker===
 
Coils are by nature an antenna.
 
That makes them good at picking up any electromagnetism happening nearby, the strongest of which is usually the 50Hz / 60Hz power hum.
 
And this hum can be made more noticeable by certain audio effects, including distortion, fuzz, compressors <!--(often when they effectively reduce the dynamic range)-->.
 
<!--
It will pick up anything that produces lower frequencies.
You largest saving grace is distance - an [[inverse square]] thing.
 
Say, put an electric screwdriver/drill next to it and you'll hear its motor,
but move it away and it easily falls below other noise.
 
Actually anything digital. even if the communication is at a much higher frequency,
particularly digital transmission tends to be low -- and that 'sending or not'
 
E.g. the The [[elektrosluch]] lets you record baseband EM as sound -- and is nothing more than a coil and an amplifier.
 
-->
 
 
The simplest pickup is a '''single-coil''' pickup, which don't address this at all.
There are some ways to reduce hum (e.g. don't be near a powered object), but not by a lot.
 
 
People then thought up '''humbuckers''', a setup that takes
* two such coils,
* hooked up in opposite polarity,
* and one with its magnets flipped.
 
This is a clever trick, but it involves two parts, so if you want to actually understand them, you probably want to work this out on paper.
 
 
Due to being hooked up opposite, anything that both coils in the pickup receive the same amount ends up being subtracted.
 
So why doesn't that happen to the strings as well?
That's where the other part comes in: due to one coil having the magnets flipped, the signal from these coils are idential but one of them is flipped - and subtracting a wave from it's flipped form works out as addition again.
 
 
And yeah, that subtraction is far from perfect for a few reasons (e.g. the fact that the coils cannot be in ''entirely'' the same place),
but it's pretty decent for lower frequencies, and sources that are further away.
Mains hum is both of those, so it works pretty well.


The movement from the string end up opposite (due to the flipped magnetics) so that subtraction ends up being addition again.


{{comment|Technically, you can connect humbuckers either in series or in parallel,  
{{comment|Technically, you can connect humbuckers either in series or in parallel,  
but series is more typical due to the output signal (and the effect{{verify}}) being a little stronger.}}
but series is more typical due to the output signal (and the hum-reducing effect{{verify}}) being a little stronger.}}
 
 
Single coils tend to work out a little brighter (and used in surf, sixties sounds), humbuckers tend to be bassier.
 
And then there are distinct designs of each.
 
<!--
Is there merit to the "more magnet means less natural" ?
 
-->
 
===Individual pole or rail===
<!--
 
This isn't a difference in the coils (usually), it's a difference in the magnets{{verify}}
 
 
Most pickups have little circuits. Those are effectively the ends of magnets.
Why give each string its own pole?
 
It's not actually necessary - as long as there's a strong enough magnetic field near all strings,
it'll work fine. 
 
 
I've seen plenty of basses that just throw two pickups under apparently purely because one wasn't wide enough (they are still wired as single coil).
 
In a way, rail pickups do that same thing but are a little more honest about it: they have one long conductor getting that magnetic field out there.




There is also a distinction between
* having individual poles under the strings
: closer poles mostly mean stronger output
: and when poles are screws, you can do that per string (and you may care to do that to changing the relative volume of each string)<!--
: there is no best way, other than what you-->


* rail pickups, which have one long conductor do the same thing
Is there a difference? Sure.


Rail pickups doesn't do as much focusing, probably a little lower signal to noise, but also don't go quieter when bending
Individual poles under the strings may (or may not) be screws that let you extend these to put them closer to the strings,
:: but can be made as small as a single coil, meaning you can install in guitars designed for one-coil witout modifying them
focusing the magetic field and making for somewhat stronger output - or lower noise if you dial down the volume.
:: and allow bending strings without volume loss
And the ability to do that per string lets you alter the relative volume of each string a bit, e.g. if you feel the lowest string is


From that explanation, you can expect rail pickups to maybe be a little lower signal to noise.
That said, they run less risk of becoming quieter when bending a string (further up the neck).


And as a footnote, you might get humbucking rail pickups as small as a single coil,
meaning you can install in guitars designed for one-coil witout modifying them
-->


<!--
<!--
There are a bunch more design choices that tend to  
There are a bunch more design choices that tend to  
focus a little more on warmer sounds, or cleaner sounds,
focus a little more on warmer sounds, or cleaner sounds,




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You can also individually wind poles
You can also individually wind poles


-->




===Passive or active===
<!--
Active pickups (a.k.a. hot pickups?) are any that are powered, whatever the style {{verify}}
Pickups give enough signal that they do not need to be powered
for circuits to receive what they do -- yet placing the amplification (and more importantly, impedance change)
close to the signal generation avoids some loss and noise issues,
and that motivation is also why active pickups are usually humbuckers.


-->
-->




===Coil tap or split coil===
<!--
<!--
Active pickups (a.k.a. hot pickups?) are any that are powered, whatever the style {{verify}}


Pickups give enough signal that they do not need to be powered,
Humbuckers have four wires.
yet amplifying that signal closer to the source avoids some loss and noise issues,
 
and that motivatin is also why these are also almost exclusively humbuckers.
That's basically just two pairs, one from each coil.
-->
 
 
In typical wiring, two of them are taped together, which connects the two coils together.
 
Depending on the rest, you may care only about the other two, or about the middle ('center tap') as well.
 


<!--
The wire colors used vary by manufacturer.
Humbuckers have four wires, and in typical wiring, two of them are taped together,
A multimeter will tell you more (TODO: explain).  
and you only care about the other two.


The wire colors vary by . A multimeter will let you




A fifth wire is ground/shielding. It may be exposed separately, allowing more wiring variants (and more creative combinations of multiple humbuckers),
A fifth wire, if present, is ground/shielding.
but in typical wiring it's effectively connected to whatever the circuit you connect it to considers ground - which (save for a little wire impedence) will also be one end of the humbucker.
Usually it's connected to whatever the circuit you connect it to considers ground - which will also be one end of the humbucker (save for a little wire impedence).
It may be exposed separately, allowing more wiring variants (and more creative combinations of multiple humbuckers).






Coil tap and split coil are such variants.
Coil tap and split coil are some of these variants.




'''Split coil''' refers to using only one of the two separate humbucker coils, and since most humbuckers expose this middle point (two of the wires in a four-wire setup) this a matter of adding a switch.  
'''Split coil''' refers to using only one of the two separate humbucker coils, and ignoring the other.
Using a humbucker in a split way loses the noise rejection, but the sound quality becomes more like that of a single coil pickup, and this is a nice little bit of versatility to get for the price of a single switch.
Since most humbuckers expose this middle point (two of the wires in a four-wire setup) this a matter of adding a switch.  
Using a humbucker in a split way loses the noise rejection, but the sound quality becomes more like that of a single coil pickup, and this is a nice little bit of versatility
for the price of a single switch.




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Depending on how it was made, whether it's in the middle or not, you now have two or three different ways to wire it up.
Depending on how it was made, whether it's in the middle or not, you now have two or three different ways to wire it up.


Again, a switch. But compared to splitting a humbucker, it makes a smaller difference in timbre, and has subtler reasons for doing so.
Again, a switch.


But compared to splitting a humbucker, it makes a smaller difference in timbre, and has subtler reasons for doing so.


Some people incorrectly use these terms meaning the same thing, either misunderstanding what it is,
 
or just figuring 'coil tap' sounds like a cooler, more musical term than 'splitting a humbucker'.  
Some people use these terms meaning the same thing, but that's not right in either a technical sense,
or in the difference or sound that it provides.
Either they misunderstanding what it is, or perhaps figure 'coil tap' sounds like a cooler, more musical term than 'splitting a humbucker'.  




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means that neither musically or electromagnetically are they the same thing.
means that neither musically or electromagnetically are they the same thing.


(And no, you can't tap a single coil to do humbucking)
(And no, you can't tap a single coil to do humbucking - that ignores the magnetics)
 
-->
-->


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http://www.irongear.co.uk/irongear_pickups_027.htm
http://www.irongear.co.uk/irongear_pickups_027.htm


===The circuit behind the dials===
<!--
The volume dial is typically just a pot that wipes between ground on one side, and the coil output on the other.
Log-scale, because that makes more sense for volume.
The tone pot is more interesting.
One basic construction is, basically independent of the volume dial,
to have the coil output on one side of another pot, with the wiper going to ground via a capacitor, the other will be unconnected.
This is a basic RC lowpass circuit, with the pot on the unconnected side introducing so much resistance that this part has no effect.
With a ~200kOhm pot, a ~dozen-nF capacitor works.{{verify}}
Wire to potmeter case is trying to lessen hum a little by shielding it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OcmKU5rblA
-->
===Multiple pickups, position, and switches===
<!--
The idea is that
putting a pickup near the neck makes for a sharper tone, and
putting it near the fretboard ('bridge pickup') make fir a more mellow and warm sound.
[https://youtu.be/Iy9jEy6nLek?t=95 This is one of the nicest demonstrations I've found]
'''Assuming you have both (or three)'''
{{imagesearch|resonant string|A vibrating string physically moves more near the center of the string}},
so putting a pickup there will also be ''louder'' than putting that same pickup further away.
That said, in guitars with both neck and bridge pickup, one may well be more sensitive than the other,
so you can combine them with more tone than volume difference.
As a side effect, the neck pickup being hotter works out as lower-noise.
There is not necessarily an EQ difference {{verify}}, but
The classical switch is engages one at a time, but guitarists found use in moving it to engage two at once,
so on 2-pickup you may have 2-way or 3-way{{verify}}, and on 3-pickup you may have 3-way and 5-way.
-->




'''Does that make all electric guitars sound the same?'''
<!--
===Are you saying all electric guitars sound the same?===


Given that a magnetic pickup only picks up the string and nothing acoustic,
Given that a magnetic pickup only picks up the string and nothing acoustic,
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Yes but no.
Yes but no.


Yes in that the physics of the guitar body matters ''much'' less than it does in acoustics.
Yes in that the physics of the guitar body matters ''much'' less than it does in acoustic guitars.


No in that there are still differences.
No in that there are still differences.




Construction matters.
'''Construction matters'''
 
There are a lot of small 'because physics' notes to be made here.
 
A lot of them matter more when it's poorly made and less when it's well made.
This is part of why why there are no awesome $20 guitars - but also why the high end doesn't vary so much.


There are a lot of small 'because physics' notes to be made here, though a lot of them matter when it's poorly made, and the reason why there are no awesome $20 guitars. The neck should to be a solid wood because of string tension, and arguably even weather.  
The neck should to be a solid wood because of string tension, and arguably even weather.  
: A soft wood will bend, bending notes along. Which is a cool effect itself, but almost uncontrollable this way.
: A soft wood will bend, bending notes along. Bending can be a cool effect itself, but almost uncontrollable this way.
: It's workable in theory, but it is more practical to design a guitar with a harder wood, and bend yourself.
: It's workable in theory, but it is more practical to design a guitar with a harder wood, and bend yourself.


The bridge probably shouldn't be soft either. How solid the neck-body connection is matters somewhat to how much tone is sustained.
The bridge probably shouldn't be soft either.
How solid the neck-body connection also effect how long a tone is sustained.


At the same time, there ''is'' a price at which it's all intentional design focus,  
At the same time, there ''is'' a price at which it's all intentional design focus,  
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That said, pickups aren't created equally.  
'''Pickups aren't created equally.'''


Let's not forget the tone circuit, which are often RC lowpass filters, sometimes highpass style.  
Let's not forget the tone circuit, which are often RC lowpass filters, sometimes highpass style.  
These make a huge difference, by design.
 
These are filters. Filters make a These make a large difference. By design.
 
Also, a pickup and passive tone circuit will become a larger circuit that interacts.
Guitar tone can vary for just this reason.
If you like the result, it doesn't matter much whether that was accident or highly intention design.
 




On the other hand, tonewood is ''mostly'' nonsense..  
On the other hand, tonewood is ''mostly'' nonsense..  
Yes, choice of woods is ''absolutely'' a thing in acoustic instruments, because of the resonance on the body and cavity of the guitar,
 
Yes, choice of woods is ''absolutely'' a thing in ''acoustic'' instruments, because of the resonance on the body and cavity of the guitar,
neither of which are noticeably on the body of the electric guitar - only anything that makes it into the strings will be heard,
neither of which are noticeably on the body of the electric guitar - only anything that makes it into the strings will be heard,
which means the pickup is the largest factor.
which means the pickup is the largest factor.
There are some footnotes to this (like the already mentioned sustain), but they are mostly quite subtle.
-->
===DIY pickups===
<!--
You ''can'' wind your own pickups.
There's a bunch of math involved,
and while a lot of pickups are enough like each other that you can have a goal,
that's also roughly why it may not be worth the work.
-->
===More on single coil hum===
<!--
Single coil is a decent antenna, and pretty good at picking up environmental EM, which is often mostly mains hum 50 or 60Hz).
Assume single coil will be noisy.
That doesn't mean all guitars are equally noisy, or that you can't so anything about it.
Turn off mains devices, or stay some distance away from them
You can shield the pickups. This probably affects the sound, though.
You can get a 'hum eliminator pedal', which is mainly just a notch filter
"noise reduction pickups"
All metal parts are connected together - bridge (and thereby strings), and possibly the pick outside,
probablty the the potmeters - and all connected to the
'''If hum goes down when you touch the strings (or any other metal)''' (and probably also increases a little while you are close but not touching, but that may not be perceptible),
your pickups are probably not very well shielded (and it's probably a single coil, not a humbucker).
You could try standing away from everything electronic, but that's often not feasible.
You are acting as an antenna that is weakly capacitively coupled,
but when you touch metal you become grounded so actually act as a ''shield'' instead, i.e. move that same EM past rather than into the pickup.
This works better when you're holding it closer (which you ''will'' during playing, so is irrelevant but useful to double check during diagnosis).
It is possible that more shielding will help, but note its side effects.
'''If hum increases when you touch the strings (or any other metal)''',
your guitar-and-amp setup is grounded, meaning shielding doesn't work as well
'''If hum doesn't change much when you touch things''',


Single coil pickups will almost always have hum, but there may be ways to reduce it.
* Closer pickups
: Depending on the pickup type, you can vary either the pickup's overall distance, or a single pole
: at some point it's so close that fretting a string and/or vibration of a fretted string will hit it
: this doesn't reduce the hum, it just means the signal is a bit stronger so when you turn it to the same volume, the noise is a little lower.
'''If you have multiple pickups and a switch, and only some pickups have hum''', it's probably damaged
'''The ups and downs of shielding'''
Extensive shielding of the cavity around the pickups should help reduce half of the EM,
but will also change the capacitance, which seems to work out as losing high end.
Shielding just the pickups will have a similar effect, but it may be less pronounced{{verify}}.






Single coils tend to be brighter (and used in surf, guitar, sixties sounds), humbuckers tend to be bassier.


And then there are distinct designs of each.


'''Why isn't hum a solved issue?'''


It is.


''DIY''
Y'all don't like the solution, though.


You ''can'' wind your own pickups. There's a bunch of math involved,
and while a lot of pickups are enough like each other that you can have a goal,
that's also roughly why it may not be worth the work.


Many guitarists seem to ''want'' the guitar and cab to be a unique circuit with a unique sound,
and the choice of cable.




If you do things in an electrically clean way - lower the output impedance and thereby the need for the amp's impedance to also be high,
avoid guitar cable capacitance, etc, then a lot of guitars start sounding the same






-->
-->


===Sustainers===
===Sustainers===
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The net effect is that it amplifies the electromagnetics it picks up (relatively low frequencies, due to its design),  
It sends out what it receives (due to typical design largely focuses on lower frequencies),  
which on a guitar means forcedly resonating the tone currently being played.
which on a guitar amounts to forcedly resonating the tone currently being played.




These are often separate products.  
Sustainers are often sold as separate products.  


Some guitars have sustainers built in (this is often custom), which will often look like regular pickups, and could even be used ''as'' a pickup when not active, should you want to.
Some guitars have sustainers built in (this is often custom),
which will often look like regular pickups, and could even be used ''as'' a pickup when not active, should you want to.






These are often used for spacey sounds or other genre-specific things, because while it's good at controlling slow volume swells, tremolo, and some other expressiveness that you cannot easily do on guitars {{comment| (and are more commonly associated with other instruments, like violins - which is e.g. where the e-bow gets its name)}}, long sustains don't combine too well with strumming or fast playing.
Sustainers are often used for spacey sounds or other genre-specific things, because while it's good at controlling slow volume swells, tremolo, and some other expressiveness that you otherwise cannot easily do on guitars {{comment| (and are more commonly associated with other instruments, like violins - which is e.g. where the e-bow gets its name)}}, the same long sustains don't combine too well with strumming or fast playing.






The {{imagesearch|E-bow sustainer|E-bow}} is one brand of hand-held sustainer, aimed to work on one string, to add expressiveness to phrasing.  
The {{imagesearch|E-bow sustainer|E-bow}} is one brand of hand-held sustainer, aimed to work on one string, to add expressiveness to phrasing.  
It has a groove to rest on one string (that you're not playing) to help align and pivot is to modulate the effect, the other to indicate where it picks up and excites.
It has grooves to the side to rest on other strings you're not playing, and indicates where it most picks up and excites.


Its designer found that if you reverse the driver coil, it dampens the fundamental frequency and amplifies overtones/harmonics a bit more. This is presumably all that the harmonics switch does.
Its designer found that if you reverse the driver coil, it dampens the fundamental frequency and amplifies overtones/harmonics a bit more. This is presumably all that the harmonics switch does.
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'''DIY'''
'''DIY'''


As the now-expired [https://patents.google.com/patent/US4075921A patent] shows, the circuitry is not much more than a coil, decoupling, amplifier, and another coil, which feeds its own output back with a certain gain (there suggested to be variable).
As the now-expired [https://patents.google.com/patent/US4075921A patent] shows, the circuitry is not much more than a coil, amplifier, and another coil (plus some decoupling) which feeds its own output back with a certain gain (there suggested to be variable).




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Sustainiac
Sustainiac


-->
==="Magnetic picks"===
<!--
At one point there was a product called a magnetic pick.
If they called it a modulating pick or ducking pick it would have been fine,
but because they weren't clear about it did,
and because of what the demonstration videos showed,
this got lots of people assuming you could play without touching.
And that does not work.
Knowing the physics of guitars, this makes little sense.
Yes, the entire thing involves magnetic fields, but the magnetic field is just there to have the other part of the pick something to notice.
It is not the magnetic field that vibrates to produce a signal, it is the strings.
If the pick cannot make the strings move, why does it seem to work?
Because it does the opposite of playing:
it effectively deafens the pickup when the magnet is close (a saturation that works out as compression?{{verify}}).
That ''does'' let you add a sort of tremolo effect after you have already physically picked a string,
and that is what all the demonstrations are doing.
Some of them hide this by effectively doing hammer-ons on the neck, others are just having fun.
It's a potentially useful effect, but it's not picking.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9MF60ZO8rI
-->
-->


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Circuit-wise, piezos can be seen as vibration sensors in parallel with a reasonable capacitor.
Circuit-wise, piezos can be seen as vibration sensors in parallel with a reasonable capacitor.
While they produce reasonable voltage, but their current is low and their output impedance high,
 
and it's part of their design so unavoidable.
While they produce reasonable voltage,  
their current is low and their output impedance high,
which are properties of their physical design,
so largely unavoidable.




This means you want a buffer, and possibly to amplify, or tame, the signal level.
This means you want a [[buffer amplifier|buffer]], and possibly to amplify, or tame, the signal level.


Without such amplification, the level is not very predictable but may work for a particular case - but the  capacitance will almost certainly eat the bass range (it works out as a lowpass filter).
Without such amplification, the level is not very predictable but may work for a particular case - but the  capacitance will almost certainly eat the bass range (it works out as a lowpass filter).




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Many circuits you'll find out there are for guitars, meaning they use a 9V battery they divide.
Many circuits you'll find out there are for guitars, meaning they use a 9V battery they divide.
That circuit consists mostly of
That circuit consists mostly of
* capacitor (for AC coupling, and the bias)
* capacitor (for [[AC coupling] and bias)
* division of the power rails (to bias positive)
* division of the power rails (to bias positive)
* transistor, or op amp
* transistor, or op amp

Latest revision as of 23:24, 8 September 2023

The physical and human spects dealing with audio, video, and images

Vision and color perception: objectively describing color · the eyes and the brain · physics, numbers, and (non)linearity · color spaces · references, links, and unsorted stuff

Image: file formats · noise reduction · halftoning, dithering · illuminant correction · Image descriptors · Reverse image search · image feature and contour detection · OCR · Image - unsorted

Video: format notes · encoding notes · On display speed · Screen tearing and vsync


Audio physics and physiology: Sound physics and some human psychoacoustics · Descriptions used for sound and music

Noise stuff: Stray signals and noise · sound-related noise names · electronic non-coupled noise names · electronic coupled noise · ground loop · strategies to avoid coupled noise · Sampling, reproduction, and transmission distortions · (tape) noise reduction


Digital sound and processing: capture, storage, reproduction · on APIs (and latency) · programming and codecs · some glossary · Audio and signal processing - unsorted stuff

Music electronics: device voltage and impedance, audio and otherwise · amps and speakers · basic audio hacks · Simple ADCs and DACs · digital audio · multichannel and surround
On the stage side: microphones · studio and stage notes · Effects · sync


Electronic music:

Electronic music - musical terms
MIDI · Some history, ways of making noises · Gaming synth · microcontroller synth
Modular synth (eurorack, mostly):
sync · power supply · formats (physical, interconnects)
DAW: Ableton notes · MuLab notes · Mainstage notes


Unsorted: Visuals DIY · Signal analysis, modeling, processing (some audio, some more generic) · Music fingerprinting and identification

For more, see Category:Audio, video, images


Piezo elements

This article/section is a stub — some half-sorted notes, not necessarily checked, not necessarily correct. Feel free to ignore, or tell me about it.

A piezo element (often in disc form, sometimes in others like a guitar pickup's rectangular pellets) responds to bending/stress on its surface with voltage.

This makes them useful to sense vibration (including sound), impact (they are common in electronic drumkits), and in theory sense something bending, though there are more robust ways to do that.

There are piezo-based kinetic switches - e.g. battery-less RF buttons that operate from the energy you put in.


You can also use them as actuators, but only for very small movement - small sounds, small actuators in microscopy, maybe some haptic feedback.

(They are seen in some vandal proof buttons, because there can be a serious amount of hard material in between button and piezo. Yet they are not the only or often even best way to do that.)



On piezo polarisation

Electromagnetic pickups

This article/section is a stub — some half-sorted notes, not necessarily checked, not necessarily correct. Feel free to ignore, or tell me about it.


Electromagnetic pickups, a.k.a. magnetic pickups, means

  • a coil,
  • close to a permanent magnet (practically often around, it's useful positioning),
  • with both oriented and positioned so that a nearby conductor moving in that field affects the field in a way that makes it into the coils


For context: When you move a magnet near a wire, current flows. This is e.g. how an electric generator works, turning movement into electricity.

A guitar does something similar, but instead of moving the magnet near a wire, it moves the wire near a magnet.

It's not that the strings are magnetic (that would work, but be hard to make), it's that that is done by the pickup as well. The pickup has two distinct parts: magnets, and a coil. The magnet is there only to set up a field strong enough for the coils to then notice the variation in.

A variation caused by the movement of a conductor - the strings.

The vibrations of the string becomes the signal on the coil, fairly directly.


This is also why such guitar pickups only work with metal strings, and do not pick up anything acoustic, so the rest of the guitar's design barely matters to the sound - except perhaps to things like

hitting the body (impacts end up soft vibration of the strings),
sympathetic vibration of strings
shaking a guitar



Single coil or humbucker

Coils are by nature an antenna.

That makes them good at picking up any electromagnetism happening nearby, the strongest of which is usually the 50Hz / 60Hz power hum.

And this hum can be made more noticeable by certain audio effects, including distortion, fuzz, compressors .


The simplest pickup is a single-coil pickup, which don't address this at all. There are some ways to reduce hum (e.g. don't be near a powered object), but not by a lot.


People then thought up humbuckers, a setup that takes

  • two such coils,
  • hooked up in opposite polarity,
  • and one with its magnets flipped.

This is a clever trick, but it involves two parts, so if you want to actually understand them, you probably want to work this out on paper.


Due to being hooked up opposite, anything that both coils in the pickup receive the same amount ends up being subtracted.

So why doesn't that happen to the strings as well? That's where the other part comes in: due to one coil having the magnets flipped, the signal from these coils are idential but one of them is flipped - and subtracting a wave from it's flipped form works out as addition again.


And yeah, that subtraction is far from perfect for a few reasons (e.g. the fact that the coils cannot be in entirely the same place), but it's pretty decent for lower frequencies, and sources that are further away. Mains hum is both of those, so it works pretty well.


Technically, you can connect humbuckers either in series or in parallel, but series is more typical due to the output signal (and the hum-reducing effect(verify)) being a little stronger.


Single coils tend to work out a little brighter (and used in surf, sixties sounds), humbuckers tend to be bassier.

And then there are distinct designs of each.


Individual pole or rail

Passive or active

Coil tap or split coil

Multiple pickups, position, and switches

DIY pickups

More on single coil hum

Sustainers

This article/section is a stub — some half-sorted notes, not necessarily checked, not necessarily correct. Feel free to ignore, or tell me about it.


A guitar sustainer is an electromagnetic pickup coil, plus amplifier and driver coil.


It sends out what it receives (due to typical design largely focuses on lower frequencies), which on a guitar amounts to forcedly resonating the tone currently being played.


Sustainers are often sold as separate products.

Some guitars have sustainers built in (this is often custom), which will often look like regular pickups, and could even be used as a pickup when not active, should you want to.


Sustainers are often used for spacey sounds or other genre-specific things, because while it's good at controlling slow volume swells, tremolo, and some other expressiveness that you otherwise cannot easily do on guitars (and are more commonly associated with other instruments, like violins - which is e.g. where the e-bow gets its name), the same long sustains don't combine too well with strumming or fast playing.


The E-bow is one brand of hand-held sustainer, aimed to work on one string, to add expressiveness to phrasing. It has grooves to the side to rest on other strings you're not playing, and indicates where it most picks up and excites.

Its designer found that if you reverse the driver coil, it dampens the fundamental frequency and amplifies overtones/harmonics a bit more. This is presumably all that the harmonics switch does.





"Magnetic picks"

Noise

Preamps

Piezo pickup amps

Magnetic pickup amps