View source for DIY, craft, materials, and such / Dyeing

{{#addbodyclass:tag_everyday_and_diy}}
{{DIY and crafts}}

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=Practical hints=
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* tl;dr for common fabrics:
: Most everyday fabrics are protein fibers or cellulose fibers. {{comment|(See also [[DIY, craft, materials, and such / Fabrics - materials]] for more on the actual fabrics)}}
:: for animal / protein fibers - such as wool, silk: acid dye, or fiber reactive dye
:: for cellulose fibers - such as cotton, linen, hemp: direct dye (less washfast), or fiber-reactive dyes (more vivid). 
:: [[#.22all_purpose.22_dyes|all-purpose dye]] contains both direct dye and acid dye, meaning it will work on protein ''and'' cellulose fiber. This is ''convenient'', but the color take is less predictable, and it's a little wasteful because half the dye does nothing.


* it generally helps to wash before dyeing. 
: check the instructions, though
:: some detergents and fabric softeners can interfere with some dyes
:: yet in a some cases, detergents can help set a color - when you add them during dyeing

* avoid bunching - tight fabric will basically do, well, tie-dye-like things
: e.g. twined rope will accept dye mostly on its surface, and not between the twined strands where they press together tightly

* If your fabric went in dry, then you may need to do a bunch more work to make sure it's wet everywhere by the time dye wants to react with it

* To get even coloring, you often need a bunch of movement
: This (and the previous two) is why the dye-in-the-washing-machine trick might work better than occasionally poking things with a spoon.
:: top loaders can be a little easier to work with, mostly because of their water level

* If you add powder to immersion vat directly, you might get some spotting because it was highly concentrated before you stirred
: consider mixing it before adding the fabric, or mixing it in a smaller bowl before mixing it into your immersion vat
: ...but consider what activates the dye's reaction. If it does that e.g. heat, then you want to work quickly to not waste dye or have less predictable results, by having it react before reaching fabric

=Stuff you add=


==Penetration==

<!--
Depending on the fabric, '''changing pH''', adding ''salt'', or other things can help the dye penetrate the fabric. 

This has little to do with the dye chemistry, it's ''not'' about fixatives/mordants,
it's a more physical effect of opening up the fabric.

Because that often means more dye can take, and deeper than ''just'' the surface,
so it allows for more intense shades.


It also tends to lessen the amount of wasted dye, because more of it reacts with the fabric,
though this is more relevant to immsersion dyes than e.g. solar dyeing or tie dyeing.


(The variation of fabrics, dyes, and the occasional interaction between things makes precise coloring pretty hard to do.)
-->

===Salt===

Helps penetrate, mostly for cotton{{verify}}, by lessening electrostatic repulsion{{verify}} between the fiber and the dye.

Also somewwhat useful when the water where you live is unusually [[hard water|hard]]{{verify}}.


For direct dyes it seems to be part of the process.

For fiber reactive dyes it's not really necessary.




It also reduces the solubility of certain dyes (which ones?), which can be nice for specific effects, or counterproductive.

<!--You may wish to add it some time later, to avoid making the initial high concentration less useful, but also ensure that the dye that is left after a while goes a long way.
-->


<!--
* sodium salts (sodium chloride, tablesalt)
* iodine salts
* potassium salts

'''Table salt''' is typically mostly sodium salts. ...plus a little iodine and some anti caking products. Probably not enough to have much effect, but you can easily get pure sodium chloride, e.g. as pickling salt.

'''Kosher salt''' is usually also without iodine, but may still have anti-caking. 
The larger crystals mean it takes a little more volume to store (which has an effect on measuring precise amounts)

-->

===Bases, e.g. soda ash===

'''Cellulose''' fibers dye much better at high pH (on the alkaline/basic end) {{comment|(around 10 or 11, varies with specific fiber)}} - it's more or less required for the dye to enter well.

{{comment|(In contrast, many protein fibers will be damaged by high pH)}}


As such, fiber reactive dyes often suggest use of e.g. [[sodium carbonate]] (a.k.a. soda ash, washing soda, sal soda).
There are many other choices, but this is one of the easier-to-work-with ones.

Keep in mind that the crystaline decahydrate (basically: when it looks like crystals rather than powder) has less active soda per weight because the rest is water, so you will need more mass/volume of it for the same amount of active ingredient.


Baking soda is chemically close to soda ash, but less strong pH-wise.
You could use it, but soda ash is often easy to find and cheaper (and avoids trying to adjust for the difference in reactive strength per amount of ingredient)


===Acids, e.g. vinegar===

'''Protein''' fibers are often dyed at ''low'' pH, on the acidic end

in part for penetration{{verify}}.


{{comment|(In contrast, acids have little effect on cellulose fiber dyeing)}}


Some common choices are
vinegar (acetic acid),
citric acid, 
sometimes cream of tartar (potassium bitartrate).

==Fixers and mordants==
{{stub}}

<!--

For a number of dyes, just putting dye on the fiber means relatively weak take (chemically) - easy to get there, easy to break, so it washes out easily.


'''Fixatives''' are the wider concept of anything that helps make a more washfast and/or lightfast take of the dye/stain.

What is a good fixative can depend on fabric, dye, and process - there is no fixative that helps all cases.



'''Mordants''' are things that chemically bond fiber to dye via a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coordination_complex coordination complex] {{comment|(which is why mordants are typically mineral/metal salts)}}. 
: Most mordants are fixatives
: fixatives are not necessarily mordants

'''Mordant dyes''' are dyes where a mordant is a ''requirement'' for any significant take.
(exactly how literally this refers to mordants and not fixatives varies a little{{verify}})




'''Process-wise'''

There are various mordants for various dyes, and different ones can influence the color outcome.

Fiber reactive dyes do not use a mordant.

Most acid dyes do not need one either.

The pH change that makes both of these work better (e.g. sodium carbonate for cellulose and vinegar/citric acid for protein) is not a mordant.



'''Terminology'''


Some argue it's also useful to split fixatives things into 
* chemical fixatives
: because they change how the reaction works and affect washfastness and such
: ...examples?

* non-chemical fixatives, "other stuff that helps"
: because tend to just affect ''how much'' dye takes at the moment of dyeing
: e.g. cellulose cellulose fibers won't dye well unless you raise pH, protein fibers dye better at low pH. Not because they change the reaction, but because they make the fiber more accessible while the dye is active.
: Similarly, urea mostly changes how much dye you can dissolve (and doesn't change most dye processes)

Salt helps penetration for ''some'' fibers, while it also lowers the solubility of some dyes (mostly just by being there{{verify}}), so it's actually a bit less predictable.




'''More terms'''
* 'pre-mordant' refers to adding a mordant to a fabric before dyeing
: sometimes to avoid runs of the dye (by forcing more immediate take)
: sometimes so that you can use different-mordanted fabrics in the same dye pot

* 'concurrent mordanting' refers to adding the dye and mordant to your bath at the same time
: may waste less dye mass (in processes that do not react completely)
: ...yet be less predictable in terms of color outcome (unless this is ''very'' well controlled)
: the take ''may'' not be as good, depending on timing (and process)

* 'post-mordant' / 'after-mordant'
: the take ''may'' not be as good

* 'side mordant'

* 'sub mordant' often refers to adding a little of a second, weaker mordant 
: often for its color-modifying effects

* solar mordanting refers to leaving fabric in the sun in plastic bags/wrap
: nice for large batches in that you're not limited by bath size
: nice for lower dye/mordant waste on very small batches
: not always quite as predictable






'''Fabric-wise'''

Wool is pretty receptive to various mordants

Silk is mostly like wool, though less receptive to chrome

Cotton 


You can use different mordants on different areas of the same fabric (e.g. yarn)
to get local color variation from the same dye.




'''Preparation and time limits'''

For various dyeing processes, the dye reacts with fabric within a given timeframe,
after which it will no longer take.

Fixatives can alter how well that take is - so indirectly how colored it is.

Note that some fixatives/mordants affect the speed of reaction{{verify}},
in which case it also matter when and how add it.

As such, you may wish to consider:
* pre-soaking the fabric with the fixer/mordant makes for a quick take, which is e.g. good in tie dye where you want contrasts rather than fades between different dyes
: note that you can get subtle variations from the same dye by using different mordants

* mixing with the dye allows you to paint with the dye 
:: note that you should use this soon after you mix, as in most cases the ongoing reaction means less take over time

* adding the mordant afterwards can be nice when unevenly spread dyes is a spto allow the dye to spread - particularly for smooth fades
:: though it can mean the take isn't as good{{verify}}



'''Notes:'''
* If you make a hobby of dyeing, and want to control the outcome better, this stuff is useful.
: If you only dye things from store products that has good instructions, you can ignore this.

* Some specific dye products take care of fixing for you, or require only minor attention.

* Fixatives are not an on/off thing, it's more of a gliding scale of effect.
: again, mostly matters if you want good control of outcome.


* Fixative in itself is a bit of a wide and vague term, because 'a better take' is somewhat vague.
: e.g. things like acids and bases can be considered fixatives in that they help open the fabric to accept more dye - but it has little to do with the chemical reaction that fixes the dye to the fabric


* Various mordants and fixatives are also dye modifiers 
: your choice of mordant is sometimes purely ''for'' that difference in effect
: There are various other substances that do more than one thing (though not for all fabrics)

* ...though at the same time, you should avoid equating them (and not believe easy guides that do so).
: It gets confusing when you want predictable outcomes, to know what really happens, when specific ingredients don't actually do anything, etc.




Many mordants are specific metal/mineral salts.
Among them:
hydrated potassium aluminium sulfate

* Alum (aluminium sulfate, aluminium acetate) is a colorless solution, and generally one of the easiest and safest fixers
: note also that you can use alum first, then add another later for color change
: Considered the least toxic choice of the set. 

* Iron (iron sulphate) is a little harsher on some fabrics, can make for a darker black, 

* Copper (copper sulphate) tends to shift color to green a bit

* Tin () makes for brighter warm colors, though is toxic enough not often be used now
* Chrome (potassium dichromate, sodium dichromate) - toxic to the environment, not often used now

* Tannins{{verify}} are vegetable salts (the above are mineral)
: a sub-mordant, in that it is rarely used alone
: there are many different tannins. Tara powder seems the most common.
: mostly used on cellulose fiber, less so on protein

Note that most are toxic in their concentrated, stored form.
The concentration you need in dyeing is low (and using more only hurts the fabric).
Once it is expended it is even less harmful.




http://dtcrafts.co.uk/dyesFixers/mordants/

http://griffindyeworks.com/understanding-mordants/

http://isamartiedyechemistry.blogspot.nl/

http://www.spindleandwheel.com/index.php/september2007/101-mordants

http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/dyeblog/C763608095/E20070615161015/

http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/FAQ/salt.shtml

http://www.dyeinghousegallery.com/en/perfect-mordanting/

http://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/home/using-mordants-natural-plant-dyes-ze0z1312zbla.aspx

http://www.maiwa.com/pdf/natural_dyeing.pdf

http://www.wcoomd.org/en/faq/~/~/media/B13993E9915C49D8A00DEA56FF41A369.ashx

http://www.earthues.com/aboutmordants.html

http://sonic.net/~dbeebee/IMDI_new/mordants.html

http://www.theecologist.org/green_green_living/clothing/404783/how_to_dye_clothes_using_natural_methods.html
-->

==Color changers, dye modifiers==

<!--

Dye modifiers / color changers will change the color outcome due to different chemistry (rather than mechanical differences such as dye amount, timing, penetration).

This refers either to things that change the color but are not strong enough to be considered a fixer/mordant,
or it amounts to choosing a different fixer/mordant that ''functionally'' act the same,
but alters the dyeing chemistry due to what they are.


Since mordant choice alters the color outcome, they can also be considered dye modifiers.

-->

==Urea==


Helps dissolve more dye in a given volume.

This can be handy when the vat is fairly small for the amount of fabric, or for deeper colors when reaction time is a factor (as in, anything that might be half done reacting before it even got close to fabric).


Also a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humectant humectant], which means it helps keep fabric wet.


Both these properties are useful in non-immersion techniques, e.g. solar dyeing, tie dyeing.

==Leveling agent==
<!--

Leveling agents are about speed.
A leveler aims to slows down the reaction, so may help dye move around once absorbed.


This because when a dye fixing process is very fast, you more easily get uneven dyes simply because you couldn't mix the active dye fast enough, and you may find that some of the dye reacts and is useless before it can even get to fiber (leaving a dark bath full of reacted now-useless dye).

{{comment|(Of course poking and stirring helps, but only helps ''well'' when the process is slow enough that you can do these things before things significantly react)}}


Ionic versus non-ionic?

-->

==Notes on health and environment==
<!--

Varies. 

Some dyes are nasty, some mordants are nasty. 

Sometimes a natural dye is healthier, sometimes not so much because the ''mordant'' is nasty -- so sometimes a synthetic one is healthier.

Sometimes it's just the dye process, sometimes the dyed product is still toxic.



http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/FAQ/naturalsafety.shtml
-->

=Technical notes=
===Protein fiber fabrics===

Protein fibers are almost anything animal and/or hair-related: '''wool''' (sheep, alpaca, angora, mohair, cashmere, etc.), '''silk''' (which unlike most protein fibers is not hair), '''camel hair''', and more.

In general, use either:
* [[#Acid dye|Acid dyes]]
: [[#.22all_purpose.22_dyes|All-purpose dyes]] (like Rit or Dylon) because they ''contain'' acid dye.

* [[#Fiber reactive dye|Fiber reactive dye]]


Hints:
* There is variation in how well a dye takes between specific protein fibers
: {{comment|(protein fibers are complex and therefore varied on on the molecular level, more so than than e.g. cellulose)}}.

* Some protein fibers don't like higher temperatures, and can felt
: felting needs a combination of soap, movement, and temperature - so you can avoid it by being careful, or using relatively cold water
: fiber reactive dyes canbe easier, often wanting to work at 30 or 40 Celcius

* protein fibers tend not to like stronger acids or bases
: ...though silk is more resistant, meaning you can use the cotton recipe as-is, though it will soften the silk and remove some of its lustre
: acid dye recipes (e.g. that for cotton) should generally be used with diluted acids <!--{{comment|(in practice often citric acid or vinegar/acetic acid)}}-->
: fiber reactive recipes typically use soda ash, a base. There are some conbinations you want to avoid{{verify}}

===Cellulose fiber fabrics===

'''Cotton''', '''linen''', '''hemp''' and '''jute''', '''[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bamboo_textile bamboo]''', '''sisal''', and most any plant-based fiber are cellulose fibers {{comment|(sugar polymers, roughly speaking)}}.

There are also some reprocessed/semi-synthetic variants, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rayon rayon] (incl. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viscose viscose], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Modal_(textile) modal], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lyocell lyocell]), [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramie ramie].


Generally (there are footnotes for specific fabrics), you can use
* '''[[#Fiber_reactive_dye|Fiber-reactive dyes]]''' - preferred for more permanent and vivid colors

* [[#Direct dye|Direct dyes]] also work, but are less washfast (fixing it may help, how much will vary)
: [[#.22all_purpose.22_dyes|All-purpose dyes]] (like Rit or Dylon) because they ''contain'' direct dye.

* [[#Vat dye|Vat dyes]] and [[naphtol dye|naphtol dye]] also work, but are nastier to work with so you generally wouldn't


''Won't'' work:
* acid dyes
* disperse dyes


Hints:
* for mixed fabrics, consider that your dye might only take on one. Check what you have.
: Cotton fabrics are often not purely cotton, and the other component may well be synthetic and not dye (nylon will take acid dye, though)
: Often the fibers are small, so the result just comes out a little lighter.

* There are footnotes for the semi-synthetics in that list.
: Rayon acetate is derived from rayon, but will not dye - you need disperse dyes for that

* Rayon and variants are less strong when wet, be careful to avoid damage.
: bamboo fabric and yarn may actually be rayon

===Acrylic===

The two common go-tos, acid dye and fiber reactive dye, won't work.

Options:
* [[#Disperse dye|disperse dye]]
* [[#Basic dye|basic dye]]
...neither of which are easy to work with.  Also, strong colors are hard to get.


If this is about yarn, you may want to opt for natural fibers instead.
Yes it's more expensive, but they dye much better (and can look and feel nicer).

===Polyurethane===
<!--
Polyurethane is used in rainsuits, 
some types of fake leather (e.g. the thinner legging-style and thicker jackets),
mixed in some spandex-type fabrics.

Can be dyed using 
* metal-complex (acid) dyes such as monoazo series
-->

===Polyester===
<!--
Disperse
-->

===Rayon===
Semi-synthetic.

Based on cellulose, and can be treated as such, 
though seems a little harder to get a predictable outcome with{{verify}}.

===Soybean fibers===
A protein fiber, can be treated as such.


===Nylon===
Nylon is a polyamide. 

While synthetic, it takes various acid dyes (most other synthetics won't).

You can use
* acid dyes (most, not all variants{{verify}})
: ...and fiber-reactive in an acid-dye way
* disperse dyes
* many natural dyes - the ones that are actually acid dyes.

Hints: 
* There are some treatments of nylon that mean dyes won't take well.

* the dyes require heat, so check the garment label to see it's okay


<!--
===(other) synthetics===
====Spandex====
Can be dyed. 

For spandex/cotton mixes, it is often easier to dye just the cotton. Often the mix is largely cotton, and it may cover most of the spandex thread, so you would not notice.

For spandex/nylon mixes, you can use acid dye for just the nylon. The probably-lukewarm temperatures means it won't be very wasfast, though.

Spandex/polyester you cannot blend - the temperatures required to dye polyester will damage the spandex. Your only option is [[Fabric paint|fabric paint]]


Notes: 
* In both cases the fabric does not like heat, but if the dye needs heat, use the warmest that the fabric label seems to allow.

-->

<!--
===To sort===
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_textile_fibres#Plant-based_fibres_.28cellulosic_fibres.29
-->

==Dye types==


===Fiber reactive dye===

Made for cellulose fibers (cotton, rayon, silk,   linen, hemp, etc.),
where they are probably the brightest dyes 

Longer lasting than some other dyes, because it reacts with your material.


Can also work on protein fibers when you use them as acid dyes (in practice weakly acidic) - a few more instructions, but works fine. There are a specific dyes that work well with wool.


<!--
The best known Note that most tie dye kits include fiber reactive dye.
{{comment|(If dyeing more than occasionally, you can get it cheaper than that)}}
-->

<!--

The basics are:
* change the PH
* add the dye
* keep the temperature at the ideal for the dye, and wait
* rinse




There are a lot of tweaks you can do, e.g. to get more reproducible results, to avoid wasting dye,
and details also vary with ''how'' you are dyeing:
: In tie dye, you use a highly concentrated dye mix directly on the fiber, which is often already pre-soaked for the pH change, so that the dye will take quickly. {{comment|(alternatively you can it to to the dye mix. Pre-soaking means you don't need to hurry)}}

: Low water immersion dyeing immerses in just enough water, which lets dye blend somewhat into non-immersed areas, and change the pH later to more or less fix how it is
: allows you to make shades, subtler scrunched textures, and such

: For an even dye, you would probably immerse the fabric in enough dye-solution water to be able to stir.
: You probably want to read up on how much water, how much heat, and such, because you can assume less of the dye will end up in your fabric (it reacts without fabric too)


So an ordered list of hints:

* make sure the fabric is clean
: Wash if you wish. For protein fibers you may wish to rinse thoroughly for better take (and to avoid a bit of unnecessary felting)

* soak fabric for moistness
: if doing the pH change on the fabric (rather than dye mix), do that too
:: see notes below on amount
:: you may wish to wring it out, so that you don't have a lot more soda

* mix the dye {{comment|(...in room-temperature water if you want to avoid starting the reaction early)}}
: if using urea, add it now
: mix in the dye powder. This can take a few minutes of stirring to dissolve well.

* apply dye, and ensure it keeps contact, and keep the fabric warm enough

* waiting time: the reaction is strongest for the first two hours or so (varying with temperature and dye)
: If you can't control temperature very well, then you can leave it up to a day.
: if you want darker colors, you pretty much have to do it again.

* Temperature: Ideal reaction temperatures vary with product and color. Follow the instructions.
: Within Procion and derivatives there are many between 35-40C, a few are higher
: don't use significantly warmer water than required for the color - more dye will react before it gets to the fabric. The reaction speed goes up fairly fast with temperature. Lukewarm is good for most.
: None of them do much at or below room temperature (~20C)
: when dying fabric of any thickness, you may wish to give some time to soak before applying heat


: It is more efficient to make just enough dye-water mix to keep the fabric wet. You can vat-dye (e.g. in a heated pot with thermostat) if you want, it just won't use as much of the dye.
:: in cold climates/seasons you may wish to bring them into a warm room or on a heater, e.g. in plastic bags


* rinse / wash
: separately - there will always be unreacted dye, and you want to get rid of it instead of getting it into your other clothes 
: manual rinsing may take a few passes before the water will be clear




Amount of soda
* a wide range will work fine dye-wise, so you can be a factor two off and still get a good dye
: arguably you should worry more about the fabric

* order of magnitude: 
: anhydrous sodium carbonate: 20 grams / 40 ml per liter
: the decahydrate (usually large crystals) are heavier because of the water, so you need a factor ~three more




https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reactive_dye
-->
<!--
Procion:

purple   (MR-R  Purple)
pink      (MX-8B Magenta)
yellow   (MX-8G Vivid Lemon   or MX-4G Lemon)
orange  (MX-2R Orange)
green    (MX-G Leaf Green or Emerald Green)
blue      (MX-R Intense Blue) (or MX-G Turquise or MX-2R Ultramarine)
black   (MX-RG Black)




-->

===Acid dye===

Generally only works on protein fibers (such as wool), not on cellulose (such as cotton).

<!--
(The dye itself is not acid, the baths you would typically put them in are)
-->

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acid_dye


=====Food dye=====

Most protein fibers - Wool, silk, also some nylon. Strength of color varies with material.

Not washfast - wash in cold water, preferably hand-wash


=====Acid leveling dye=====
a.k.a. leveling acid dye, equalizing dye, strong acid dye

Strong color, but not


=====Wash Fast, Jacquard (brand)=====
Two product lines from ProChem (with some product overlap even).

=====Lanaset, Sabraset (brand)=====
Basically a specific (US) brand of what mostly seems to be acid dyes, some specifically metal complex acid dyes, and some fiber reactive dyes.

They are generally known for keeping colors quite decently over time, and with better resistance to warmer washing.



=====One Shot dyes (brand)=====
Also sold as Country Classic. (Also from ProChem)

===Natural dyes===
Typically some sort of acid dye



==="all purpose" dyes===

Contain multiple dyes. 

For example, Rit and Dylon's typical multipurpose dyes are direct dye and leveling acid dye (e.g. covering
cotton, wool, nylon).


Because half of this won't be used, these are more expensive than necessary,
though convenient.

===Direct dye===
A.k.a. Substantive dye.

Primarily for cellulose fibers, though some protein fibers pick up direct dye as well{{verify}}.


Not washfast - expect these clothes to give off dye for a long time.
This can be alleviated, but typically not entirely, by after-treatment.

Uses warm baths, think 80-90°C.

So yes, you can effectively acid-dye in the same bath at the same time, and one reason [[#.22all_purpose.22_dyes|all-purpose dyes]] are typically direct dye + acid dye.


Notes:
* When you want to dye cellulose fabrics, direct dye is cheaper than [[#.22all_purpose.22_dyes|all-purpose dye]] (because you'ld be not be using its acid dye).


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Substantive_dye

===Disperse dye===
Meant for acrylic, polyester, and such.

<!--
The color intensifier is for polyester, not useful for acrylic

-->
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disperse_dye


===Basic dye===
Basic as in the opposite of acidic.


They stain almost everything, which you could call a feature - until it's everywhere :)

They are not the healthiest of dyes to work with so take more care.

Basic dyes on natural fibers are not very lightfast, though on acrylic they work well.

===Vat dye===

'''Vat ''dyeing'' ''' can refer to doing so in a large container, so can refer to use of any dye.


'''Vat ''dye'' ''' usually more specifically refers to a specific cellulose dye method. 
They require a reducing agent (typically [[caustic soda]], sodium hydroxide) before the dye is soluble and usable,
so is less convenient when e.g. reactive dye applies.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vat_dye

===Naphthol dye===

Works well on celluose fibers, and also on silk.

Somewhat nastier than fiber reactive, so not used in home dyeing very often.


===Sulfur dye===
Very common on cotton, but a little nastier to work with than most mentioned above, so not available for DIY use.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sulfur_dye

===Azoic dye===



===Oxidation dye===

===Mordant dye, chrome dye===
<!--

Mordants form complexes between dye molecules and mordant. 

Mordants can also significantly change color in the process.


Mordants can also help a colorfast take.

Many natural dyes (think 'extract of this or that plant') that we still use 
are mordant dyes, because they are not washfast without. 

As such, 'mordant dye' is frequently understood primarily as this 'chemical that helps it set' aspect.

-->

===Solvent dyes===

===Optical / Fluorescent Brightener===


===Fabric paints===

Note that most of the above is about fabric dyes - which ''combine'' chemically with the fabric at a molecular level.


You can see fabric '''''paints''''' as pigment held on top by a binder (think glue), similar to how you paint walls and wood and such.

Paints will work on all fabrics, but not look as integrated, almost always be stiffer, and wear faster.


===Candle dyes===
<!--
Candle dyes come in blocks, chips, and liquids.

And sometimes powder, but that's more work physical both, and harder to get proportions correct for.


Blocks and chips are basically the same thing:
wax with highly concentrated dye.

This makes blocks handy for large batches,
chips easier for subtler coloring and mixing colors.

Liquid is concentrated dye without wax - a few drops is a lot.

Quick to blend, small to store.
Don't spill this stuff - it stains everything.

-->

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