Electronics project notes/Common terms, useful basics, soldering: Difference between revisions

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===On flux===
===On flux===
{{info|Note a lot of this is somewhat more anecdotal (coming from common wisdom, good or bad).<br/>
If you have better research - or better anecdote, even - I'd be glad to hear it.}}
'''Why flux - mechanics and chemistry'''
<!--
Flux refers to anything that helps things flow {{comment|(flux ''means'' flow)}},
which in contexts like soldering and welding means chemical and/or physical processes that keep things clean.
{{comment|(say, around welding it instead means "keep the immediate work area clean of contaminants while working" - shielding gas, or a component to welding sticks that we pretend is much like flux in solder. But also "make muck easier to remove[http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_4_Fluxing.htm]")}}
<!--
In electronics, flux is more specific, often either [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosin rosin] based (a.k.a. resin based), or may be water soluble.
In general, flux depends on what you use it for:
* For soldering tin: rosin or ammonium chloride (hobby solder regularly has a core of flux)
* For gold: hydrochloric acid or zinc chloride
* In some specialist applications you would use solder without flux
Flux is also the primary reason solder produces fumes - the solder's metals won't smoke (well, until you reach ''much'' higher temperatures).
-->
<!--
<!--
{{stub}}
You don't strictly ''need'' flux to solder, in that solder will ''melt'',
but it won't always ''flow'' from or to where you want it.
 
The main reason is often a surface that is oxidized, won't conduct heat or otherwise
won't want to become part of the same solder pool.
 
The main reason flux helps is because it removes some oxidation on the surface you want to solder to.
 
You might even be fine ''without'' flux on fresh PCBs - when fresh means 'you just took a protective layer off',
which may apply more to industrial processes than to home use, though YMMV.
 
 
 
When you're starting off, don't be as stubborn as I was - experiment with flux, and sometimes makes things so much easier,
and the basic rosin type can't hurt much.
 


Note a lot of this is somwhat anecdotal. If you have better research, I'd be glad to hear it.




Also, if you have solder that you have tried to move around to the right place,
and reheated a few times, that probably also makes it more oxidized than you want,
and flow increasingly poorly.


Flux refers to any chemical that helps flow {{comment|(flux ''meaning'' flow)}}, typically by making or keeping things clean and easy to work with.
(there may be some more metallurgic reasons here - I'm not sure)


In everyday soldering, the main thing that helps is removing oxidation on the surface you want to solder to.


It will also reduce new oxidation of the surface it's on, at least for the few minutes it's on there.


If such a surface is also very dirty (or is covered by oils, solder mask, etc), you may want to clean it up first.
The muck has to go ''somewhere'', and 'into your soldering pool' won't be the greatest for your solder-flowing experience.


This is why some people prefer to wick off whatever is there and redo the whole thing.


You don't strictly ''need'' flux to solder, but generally makes it behave a lot nicer - and on very oxidized contacts you may have no luck without.
People like me are a little lazier, figuring that with enough flux, it'll work anyway.


Most solder has flux itself (in the core of the wire), but fairly little, enough for smaller work, while for large contacts it helps to add some.
-->


====Corrosive?====
<!--


Even within electronics, flux comes in different forms and consistencies




'''Types of flux, ways of applyting it'''


Most solder has flux itself, in the core of the wire, which you can consider as 'activated on use'.


Some soldering flux also contain a little powdered solder, though the precise contents and its function varies with type of product.
It's fairly little, and fairly mild - enough for most smaller work.
For some larger contacts this isn't a very useful way of delivery, and it helps to add flux of your own.




A '''flux pen''' makes for nicely localized application of liquid flux.


'''SMD flux''' is also liquid, and often comes with a smaller applier.




'''Pots of liquid rosin''' often have a brush in the top cap. This is more of medium to larger sized work. (Note that the variant of these intended for pipe soldering in plumbing may be too aggressive for PCB use)
Because certain types of unactivated flux may slowly eat away at things,
either ensure it's fully activated, or use '''flux cleaner'''/'''flux remover''',
whichever is easier for your chosen flux.


Also, desoldering braid tends to work better with a little liquid flux in it. (I use the pots mainly for this)
The type of flux cleaner you need varies a little depending on the flux used.
Isopropyl is probably fine{{verify}}




'''Soldering rosin''' refers to a specific resin, and is basically a type of flux.
This tends to be more of a paste.


When a relatively pure crystal form is almost solid and a little impractical to handle, though still useful for larger application. {{comment|(people have successfully made their own flux from tree resin, often just to see if they could)}}
This is probably only necessary when you manually added too much liquid flux, and you think it may stay around.
Flux that came in solder's core tends to burn off fast and leave very little behind.


It's also a little more annoying to clean off, so unless it's there for protection, you may want to avoid this.


DIY from instrument bow rosin & near-pure isopropyl?




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'''Corrosive?'''
'''Corrosive?'''


Fluxes are typically acidic - it's the easiest way to punch through oxidation.  
Fluxes are mentioned as being potentially corrosive.


So the better/faster a flux works, the more it is probably also corrosive.
It seems this comes primarily from the contained '''halides''', which improve fluidity and wettability,
but due to the same process will stay corrosive unless entirely spent or washed away.


As such, leaving flux around may easily eat through some things, sooner or later.  
(and/or acidity that punches through some oxidation?{{verify}}).


As a habit, clean off flux. 
[[Isopropyl alcohol]] (preferably 90+%) is a pretty good choice - to clean PCBs with in general  (though arguablty not ideal[https://www.circuitnet.com/experts/57193.html]).


You can buy ''flux cleaner'' as a product, but it largely seems to be a higher price on what is mostly just mildish solvents like [[isopropyl]] alcohol or maybe [[acetone]].
Roughly speaking, the faster a flux works, the more that it is probably ''also'' corrosive.


Halides make rework easier, while on new boards you will likely be fine with halide-free fluxes.


'''No-clean flux''' is a much weaker acid, and is ensured to have little or no solid content.


You may be fine without, but if you want to be careful, you would still clean it.  
Halides also seems to be the main reason that
Industry seems to do so.
some people say you ''must'' clear your soldering tip on every use,
and others say they've gone a decade without.
 
 
 
 
the percentages are on the order of 0, 0.2%, 1%)
 
Terms like HS10
 
 
 
 
'''"Water soluble"'''
 
While "Water soluble" flux sounds great,
but also tends to indicate that it ''has'' to be washed off for reason - i.e. that it is corrosive.
 
You probably also don't want to use those with braided wire,
because some of it will be trapped and cannot be washed (or the water actually helps wick it in)
 
...so generally people avoid these for hobby use.
 
For hobby use, plain rosin may well be most convenient all around.
 
 
 
For a similar reason, avoid plumber's flux - it's the same purpose and will ''work'', but it 's typically more corrosive.
It will often even say "not for electronics".
 
It may not be great to leave around steel either (and maybe not all plating either?).
 
 
 
 
'''No-clean flux''' may mean it is less corrosive.
It is also ensured to have little or no solid content (solids can be a ''feature'' in some other kinds of flux).
 
Note that "no clean" doesn't quite mean "no cleaning is requried",
it means "if you know it is fully activated, it won't do anything ''later''",
so check what the datasheet says.
 
 
 
 
 
'''So clean off flux?'''
 
 
So as a habit, clean off flux. 
 
You may be fine without, but if you want to be careful, you would still clean it. Industry seems to do so.
 
 
Some are specifically designed to be cleanable with just water. If not...
 
You can buy ''flux cleaner'' as a product, but it largely seems to be a higher price on what is mostly just mildish solvents like [[isopropyl]] alcohol, maybe a little [[acetone]].
 
[[Isopropyl alcohol]] (preferably 90+%) is an easy choice - to clean PCBs with in general {{comment|(though arguablty not ideal[https://www.circuitnet.com/experts/57193.html])}}.


Even milder things (even water) may work for milder fluxes, but will not remove stickier rosin.
Even milder things (even water) may work for milder fluxes, but will not remove stickier rosin.
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Avoid plumber's flux - it's the same purpose and will ''work'', but it's typically more strongly acidic.


"Soldering water", "soldering liquid", "Lötwasser"
tend to be water-based flux.
-->
====Means of application====
<!--
'''Means of application''' (also correlates somewhat with their contents)
Flux pens can be nice, in particular for SMD as it can make make solder (re)flow more easily, which is nice when doing many pins of SMD chips in one go.
The means of application (e.g. how fluid it is) correlates somewhat with certain contents,
so you may wish to check that it's the type you want.
Some soldering flux also contain a little powdered solder, though the precise contents and its function varies with type of product.
'''Liquid flux''' is often relatively thin, and e.g. useful for soldering braid, or with a little brush.
A '''flux pen''' makes for nicely localized application of liquid flux.
'''SMD flux''' is also liquid, and often comes with a smaller applier.
'''Pots of liquid rosin''' often have a brush in the top cap. This is more of medium to larger sized work. (Note that the variant of these intended for pipe soldering in plumbing may be too aggressive for PCB use)
Also, desoldering braid tends to work better with a little liquid flux in it. (I use the pots mainly for this)
'''Soldering rosin''' refers to a resin (see also [[Rosin versus resin]]), often in a relatively pure crystal form that comes as a paste.
{{comment|(people have successfully made their own flux from tree resin, often just to see if they could)}}
The paste form is probably less practical for fine work, and a little more annoying to clean off, but has its uses.
Soldering ''paste'' is often natural resin.




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https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/170941/why-do-we-need-to-remove-flux-from-circuit-boards


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flux_(metallurgy)




https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/170941/why-do-we-need-to-remove-flux-from-circuit-boards


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flux_(metallurgy)






http://www.finishing.com/Library/flux.html


Compare to:
: In [[welding]], flux it's largely to keep the immediate work area clean of contaminants. Various common styles use a shielding gas, while stick welding adds a component to the sticks that we pretend is much like flux in solder)




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-->
-->
====More on flux====
<!--
(Note that flux in general mettalurgy is more about purifying, see e.g. [http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_4_Fluxing.htm])
You can do without flux on new and clean PCBs, but in other situations it can help to add flux before you start working, to help the solder take.
When you're starting off, don't be as stubborn as I was - flux can never hurt much, and sometimes makes things so much easier..
Flux pens can be nice, in particular for SMD as it can make make solder (re)flow more easily, which is nice when doing many pins of SMD chips in one go.
Even flux that says it's (nearly) pH-neutral can eat away traces, so you probably want flux cleaner (e.g. alcohol, and even water can work if you stay away from mechanical components).
No-clean water-based fluxes ones tend to be nicer.
In electronics, flux is often either [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosin rosin] based (a.k.a. resin based), or may be water soluble.
In general, flux depends on what you use it for:
* For soldering tin: rosin or ammonium chloride (hobby solder regularly has a core of flux)
* For gold: hydrochloric acid or zinc chloride
* In some specialist applications you would use solder without flux
Flux is also the primary reason solder produces fumes - the solder's metals won't smoke until you reach much higher temperatures.
Because flux will slowly eat away at things, you can use '''flux remover''' to make sure it doesn't. This is probably only necessary when you manually added too much liquid flux, and you think it may stay around. Flux that came in solder's core tends to burn off fast and leave very little behind.
The type of flux cleaner you need varies a little depending on the flux used.
http://www.finishing.com/Library/flux.html
-->


====More on tips====
====More on tips====
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[[File:Soldering braid.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Soldering braid]]
[[File:Soldering braid.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Soldering braid]]


'''Wick''', a.k.a. '''desoldering wick''', a.k.a. '''desoldering braid''', is useful to absorb most solder.
'''Wick''', a.k.a. '''desoldering wick''', a.k.a. '''desoldering braid''', is useful to absorb the sorts of amount of solder left on a surface.
 
Used subtly enough, it can also clean up accidental [[solder bridges]], and a few other tricks.
 


It's basically a thin strip/tube of stranded copper.
It's basically a braid of stranded copper, which gives it some room for the solder (a regular braided wire wouldn't work as well)
and the idea is that when hot enough you get a capilarry-like effect.


Used subtly enough, it can also clean up accidental [[solder bridges]], and a few other tricks.




Line 1,075: Line 1,196:




You will probably have an easier time with some flux under or in the braid.


You can get braid with flux, but adding flux just before use seems to work better -- though this may be a review of the cheap braid I have.
You will probably have a ''much'' easier time with enough flux in the braid - thy physics are nontrivial, but the short story is that the braid will absorb/wick a lot better with it.
 
Dipping it in liquid flux just before use is perhaps the easiest - which isn't the form you necessarily have around.
 
 
Using braid also seems to work a little better when your soldering tip is flat, delivering heat faster.
It also means that if you are holding the wick in place, you're less likely to burn your fingers.


Using braid works a little better when your soldering tip is flat, delivering heat faster, also meaning that if you're holding the wich in place you're less likely to burn your fingers.


If you pull open the wick a bit you may get a little more absorbed
If you pull open the wick it may absorb more, but only a little, and only if it was really packed before.





Latest revision as of 17:20, 4 June 2024

⚠ This is for beginners and very much by a beginner / hobbyist

It's intended to get an intuitive overview for hobbyist needs. It may get you started, but to be able to do anything remotely clever, follow a proper course or read a good book.


Some basics and reference: Volts, amps, energy, power · batteries · resistors · transistors · fuses · diodes · capacitors · inductors and transformers · ground

Slightly less basic: amplifier notes · varistors · changing voltage · baluns · frequency generation · Transmission lines · skin effect


And some more applied stuff:

IO: Input and output pins · wired local IO · wired local-ish IO · ·  Various wireless · 802.11 (WiFi) · cell phone

Sensors: General sensor notes, voltage and current sensing · Knobs and dials · Pressure sensing · Temperature sensing · humidity sensing · Light sensing · Movement sensing · Capacitive sensing · Touch screen notes

Actuators: General actuator notes, circuit protection · Motors and servos · Solenoids

Noise stuff: Stray signals and noise · sound-related noise names · electronic non-coupled noise names · electronic coupled noise · ground loop · strategies to avoid coupled noise · Sampling, reproduction, and transmission distortions

Audio notes: See avnotes


Platform specific

Arduino and AVR notes · (Ethernet)
Microcontroller and computer platforms ··· ESP series notes · STM32 series notes


Less sorted: Ground · device voltage and impedance (+ audio-specific) · electricity and humans · power supply considerations · Common terms, useful basics, soldering · landline phones · pulse modulation · signal reflection · Project boxes · resource metering · SDR · PLL · vacuum tubes · Multimeter notes Unsorted stuff

Some stuff I've messed with: Avrusb500v2 · GPS · Hilo GPRS · JY-MCU · DMX · Thermal printer ·

See also Category:Electronics.


Boards and wiring

PCBs

Printed circuit boards (PCBs) refer to ready-made boards.

PCBs may be two-sided, or have three (or more) layers, where sandwiched layers usually purely have copper traces that allow more complex wiring than a double-sided board could give, with almost no added space.

Such PCBs are likelier to use SMT components, partly just because holes through everything are a design problem.

You can etch your own single-sided board fairly easily, and double-sided if you're adept. For more complex designs, or batches of a few dozen or more, it may become worth it to have them produced for you, though this is not particularly economical for hobbyists.


There are some PCBs that are useful to prototyping - such as pitch conversion boards.


Breadboard, protoboard, and such

Breadboard and Protoboard can refer to most boards mentioned below - solderless breadboards, raster/strip/perfboards, and more.

These are typically THT style and have 2.54mm (0.1") pitch, which means SIP, DIP and other packages, and wires up to roughly AWG 22, are also comfortable enough to use.


Solderless breadboard

Solderless breadboards, a.k.a. plugboards, are plastic boards with rows/columns of friction locked holes, very usually at 2.54mm (0.1") pitch. The arrangement s usually to connect columns, with one or two rows above and below (most often used for Vcc+Gnd)

These have a little bit more capacitance than PCBs, stripboards, and such, so avoid these for high-frequency applications.


People regularly use some solid-core wires to plug around these things (even pre-cut, partly just because shops tend to sell them), and it can look like a rather neat variant of your drawn circuit.


Size is referred to by the amount of connection points. Some common sizes include:

170 point is the cute tiny sort
270 point
400 point seems to be the average and common one
830 point is basically a long variant of 400 (16x5cm)
1280 point
1660 is basically two 830s under each other (16x10cm)




Back of a used stripboard, with most lanes cut into two or more parts (and consistently too much solder used)

Stripboard (UK: Veroboard) refers to holed boards with all holes for a row (or short groups, e.g. tripad) connected using copper strips. You can cut through these strips as you need to. Whenever you can use the copper strips, this can save a bunch of wiring and mess, particularly on simpler circuits.

Maximum current varies, but never count on moving more than half an amp (the copper width is decent, but at holes it's at most half that, so current that has to go past those holes is problematic). You can cheat a little with solder, or perhaps using multiple lanes, but soldering in an appropriate-gauge wire is often a better and easier solution.



Perfboard with verowire and plastic wiring channels

Perfboard / raster boards refers either to things with holes but no copper, (probably) more commonly, to boards with individual islands of copper, mostly for ease of soldering.

Exist in a bunch of varying looks and qualities.

Adjacent islands can be connected via channels of solder, longer-distance connections can be made with wires - a wiring pen can be handy if you have one.

Can be convenient when the circuit is somewhat complex, when stripboard would mean a lot of cutting and triboard isn't so convenient either.



Wiring pens/wiring pencils , wire-wrap, and the associated wire (UK: Verowire) are often used as an easy way to add individual between soldered points, particularly on perfboard.

Wire (usually copper with a thin plastic coating to insulate against other such wires) is often quite thin overall, and only for low currents (logic paths - fine for most 12-and-fewer-volts logic).

With a steady hand and some non-conducting adhesive tape (there are some specialists tapes) this can even be used for small-pitch / SMT components - which can be nice on protoboards.


See also:

Circuit drawing, circuit simulation

This article/section is a stub — some half-sorted notes, not necessarily checked, not necessarily correct. Feel free to ignore, or tell me about it.
win, lin, osx
win, lin, osx
  • Micro-Cap 12
win
win, lin, osx
  • LTspice


..and many others (TODO)


See also:

Fixing in place

This article/section is a stub — some half-sorted notes, not necessarily checked, not necessarily correct. Feel free to ignore, or tell me about it.

There's always hot glue., though it doesn't hold well on every surface.


If you want boards to be solidly in place, not contact anything near it, but still be removable, the simplest solution may be to use one of:

  • PCB edge holder
basically thin slots you slide the PCB into.
e.g. a few plastic clips
some project boxes have these along their length (for a single breadboard size)

Soldering

This is largely about soldering in electronics, though some of it applies well to soldering in plumbing as well.

For a wider context, see Soldering, brazing, and welding


Soldering irons - type and power

This article/section is a stub — some half-sorted notes, not necessarily checked, not necessarily correct. Feel free to ignore, or tell me about it.


On temperature

Tip selection

On buying solder

On flux

🛈 Note a lot of this is somewhat more anecdotal (coming from common wisdom, good or bad).
If you have better research - or better anecdote, even - I'd be glad to hear it.


Why flux - mechanics and chemistry


Corrosive?

Means of application

"Solder paste"

Hints originating in physics and chemistry

Solder flows with heat

More on tips

SMD and tips

Reflow soldering

Protecting things from heat

Protecting things from ESD

Unsorted hints

Further tools

Desoldering

Wick / braid

This article/section is a stub — some half-sorted notes, not necessarily checked, not necessarily correct. Feel free to ignore, or tell me about it.
Soldering braid

Wick, a.k.a. desoldering wick, a.k.a. desoldering braid, is useful to absorb the sorts of amount of solder left on a surface.

Used subtly enough, it can also clean up accidental solder bridges, and a few other tricks.


It's basically a braid of stranded copper, which gives it some room for the solder (a regular braided wire wouldn't work as well) and the idea is that when hot enough you get a capilarry-like effect.



Press the wick to solder, using your soldering iron on top.

Once this heats things enough, there's a capillary-like effect that makes most of the solder flows into the wick.

You should not need much pressure at all - enough for basic contact, the heat should do the rest.


You will probably have a much easier time with enough flux in the braid - thy physics are nontrivial, but the short story is that the braid will absorb/wick a lot better with it.

Dipping it in liquid flux just before use is perhaps the easiest - which isn't the form you necessarily have around.


Using braid also seems to work a little better when your soldering tip is flat, delivering heat faster. It also means that if you are holding the wick in place, you're less likely to burn your fingers.


If you pull open the wick it may absorb more, but only a little, and only if it was really packed before.


2mm-wide wick seems fairly general-purpose.

Wider can be nice for removing larger blobs.


Desoldering pump

Desoldering gun, desoldering station

On reflow soldering

Reflow for fixing

See also

On technique

Good solder joints

Read https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering/common-problems

On (not) damaging components

Typical components
Battery packs

Your safety

Boxes, safety, weatherproofing

Some safety considerations

  • Chassis grounding
    • done for fire safety, human-shock safety,
  • Pull resistant cable clamps
    • Particularly on power cables, but useful for anything that avoids pulling on something weak via something stronger
    • may also be water resistant


Splash-proof / waterproof box, and moisture resitance

Enclosure

Tupperware is an easy and cheap splash-proof option - and often seals fairly well, to be decent against things like dew and rain with a minimal consideration, and perhaps a little hot glue to seal the holes you make for wires.

For serious projects you can buy nice-looking boxes and may may be IP-rated, and may react to heat better than, say, tupperware.



Connectors

Usually most relevant is how condensation may affect closeby conductors.


Conformal coating, potting

This article/section is a stub — some half-sorted notes, not necessarily checked, not necessarily correct. Feel free to ignore, or tell me about it.

Conformal coating refers to materials that don't conduct electricitly, that protect against forms of moisture (including condensation), fungus, corrosion (from salt or other), dust, heat and such.

Frequently acrylic, urethane, silicone, epoxy, or paraxylene, each of which have some specific upsides.

Usually applied as a thin layer (sprayed, brushed, or dipped). Sometimes potting[5] is used instead (note: potting has more direct thermal implications).


Keywords that might be handy while searching:

  • electronic coating
  • protective coating
  • conformal coating
  • (weather) protection/protective lacquer
  • Various brands / product names - Kontakt chemie, Humiseal, etc.


Some common coatings:

  • acrylic
easy to apply
good against moisture and such, not so good against abrasion, some chemicals, natural solvents
  • silicone
lower dielectric value than most others
can stand more heat than some others
arguably easier to repair than various others
  • (poly)urethane
resists many chemicals well
not the healthiest to work with
  • epoxy
hard
easy to apply (but warm)
hard to remove
resists many chemicals well
not the healthiest to work with


  • paraxylene


See also:



Unsorted