Multimeter notes: Difference between revisions
Jump to navigation
Jump to search
mNo edit summary |
m (→Accuracy) |
||
| (One intermediate revision by the same user not shown) | |||
| Line 5: | Line 5: | ||
<!-- | <!-- | ||
When a hobbyist wants to know whether their wallplug is working, | |||
or whether the Vcc line is at 5V, 3.3V, or 0V, | |||
or whether the battery output s 4.8V or 3.4V or or 6.3V), | |||
then I'm not bothered if it's a few percent off. | |||
At the same time, if 7.3V could mean 7.4V or the other way around, | |||
there are quickly some tasks that become more guesswork (and that's ~1.5%), | |||
And if you're working in industry and calibrate things, this is important. | |||
Expensive Brand multimeters tend to be better than 1% on most functions. | |||
Assume that cheap multimeters are not any better than 1% on DC voltage and current. | |||
AC voltage and current is its own topic, | |||
because cheaper variants ''assume'' a sinusoidal waveform in their mains measurement, and | |||
only more expensive ones actually sample that any better. | |||
Also, some functions are inherently a little harder to do than others, e.g. | |||
* very high resistance. | |||
* lower capacitance | |||
* very low resistance (in that the test cables may be too thin and at some point you're measuring ''them'') | |||
Really cheap no-name multimeters may be be 2 or 3 or 4% ''in some functions''. | |||
Expensive Brand multimeters tend to be better than 1% on most functions, sometimes much. | |||
| Line 25: | Line 42: | ||
--> | --> | ||
==Multimeter resistance figure slowly increasing== | ==Multimeter resistance figure slowly increasing== | ||
<!-- | <!-- | ||